White Fang Mahjong

Wordpress is as reliable as jello, which isn’t really much.

I’m planning a few big things for WF but not a blog format. And since the interface is counter-intuitive to me producing anything, it’s going in the garbage.

Locally, you can expect something for October, and web-wise, December/January.

I’m currently involved in a few auctions for buying autodealer tiles (not the autodealers themselves) so I’ll have a report ready within a week. In the meantime, check the usual informative sites, osamuko.com , Reach Mahjong, etc.

By the way, why would I buy autodealer tiles without an autodealer ? I’ll tell you in my next post.

The internet is a great place for information, and since I play often enough IRL I thought it would be a good idea to look around for information and construct the first DO and DON’T guide.

This is 2009, so one of the basic examples I can show is the Amos Mater. It costs 198000Y so about 2100 US at posting. It’s good for its size, and adjustable in height. More importantly, it has something that can actually set the tile count to what you need it.

A lot of people trying to sell off tables do not even bother showing that they are adjustable, giving the impression that they aren’t, or worse yet, will assume or tell people unscrupulously that they ARE that adjustable when they ARE NOT or NOT AS MUCH as being said. Let’s go through the bullet list of features that are usually found:

• A knob, switch, or a numeric setting. Usually, selection from 4 modes is good. The Mater can switch through nine.
• Modes that are vital for Autodealers are 136 (should be the default choice), 144, and 108. Everything else can be theoretically ignored but this is a sign that the table is OK. *** American Mahjong enthusiasts will be disappointed to know that as of yet, I have not found a single table that can deal your games at 152 tiles or Vietnamese at 160. Not that I’m looking for your interests, but unless someone submits proof that there is a machine with a knob setting at 148 or above, please accept the fact that none probably have existed or ever will.
• A legend is not really required for knob-based selectors as long as the number of tiles is marked or the usual game mode. 4P = 136. 4P Flower = 140. 4P Flower Flower = 144. 3P should be 108, but those marketed to Chinese may have another count for 3P.

Other things a decent table should have are:

• Two sets of tiles. Obviously because one shuffles while the other is raised, it’s not practical to have a table with only one set. Tiles sold for mahjong tables in Japan go for 24000Y minimum.
• A dice roller in the center. Usually it’s integrated with what makes the table open up to catch the next batch of tiles after a game.
• A power cord (Obvious but then there’s…) and a label explaining the power consumption. You need to know the voltage (V), frequency (Hz) and what kind of outlet the plug is made for. Japanese tables are usually made for Japanese power, which is 100V everywhere, and either 60Hz in the East, or 50 Hz in the West. While Japan recognizes a bit of the dual frequency issues that arise, they’ll usually say if it can work on both systems, 50-60Hz. The North American power grid however works on 110V, meaning you could cause damage to the system if you do not use a transformer. AFAIK, only Kakinuma in Kobe is able to retrofit a 110V plug system for use in N.A. Then again, Chinese tables might be made for a multitude of markets. If it can’t take 110V, 60Hz, you will still need a transformer.
• Some kind of container system for point chips or sticks, and a riichi stick holder for Japanese tables.

These are things you have to consider even before wanting to buy an autodealer. The most important thing to consider is price, the Quality/Price ratio of what you are getting and most importantly, the pleasure return on investment. 200kY is actually on the cheap end for new AND used autodealers. The lowest I’ve seen one advertised is 130kY (1360 US) used. Sellers beware, if you think that you can sell any table off at 2000$, you’re dreaming. Mahjong isn’t popular enough as a whole to sustain any price point. And if it is popular, you have to know if your goods are below standard but acceptable, or worse, not compatible with the variants played by the people surrounding you. A Chinese table that can’t be set to 136 is a problem for Japanese Mahjong players (this has nothing to do with ethnicity, but the rules.) Tiles in a Japanese table aren’t suited for normal use for Chinese Mahjong because Japanese sets tend to have 4 red fives and 4 flowers, rather than 8 flowers. And as mentioned above, very few or no tables at all are made for American or Vietnamese Mahjong.

Most places online will either omit or neglect to mention play setting options and prices, opting for a secluded marketing strategy of showing a functioning table eat one set of tiles put up the other walls (some put more, but most stop here) and putting up a fairly high price or none at all. These sites get the vowel treatment. “Ooh, aah, …, wha?”

We know of the “wholesale price” of Chinese tables is 680USD$ as long as you order 45 of them. A price creep is inveitable but it’s hard to justify 2000$ on such a set, much less 4000$. Some autodealers probably are worth that much. If you’re buying, the one you’re looking at isn’t. Trust me. Same for selling. No mystic wind story can enhance the value of an autodealer this high. This is even more important when selling or auctioning old, used and/or abandoned autodealers in North America. No matter how you try to rationalize the “rare supply” part of the equation, “rare demand” will affect not only what it’s worth, but how much you can get for it (meaning even less). And we don’t care how much shipping cost you or the person you bought it from, because it will affect potential buyers down the line too.

Finally, you have to wonder if you’re buying for the right reasons. How often you play mahjong is the best indicator. How many times or games in a month, and if you project that number to increase. What happens in case of a malfunction, do you access to really handy people ? I doubt you’ll get any warranty coverage.

This is why buying a used set isn’t worth paying over 300 USD at best condition.

Was there ever a time where you wondered when you think everyone else is wrong but there really isn’t much of a statistical way readily available to you to prove the answer one way or another ?

I got this hand posted on a 5-dan’s blog that the people in #mahjong showed me. Both he and most of the channel said that making a pon at this time was a good idea. But I don’t know if this is flow or digital mahjong talking. I do think that there is a danger of something occuring that would not be beneficial to play, so I’ll work on proving it.

More on this next post.

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